A Nice Second-Label Chardonnay

Hunting for a fruity, non-oaky Chardonnay, we recently picked up a bottle of a 2005 Hawk Crest Chardonnay. We know Hawk Crest because we know Stag’s Leap, so we hoped it was a safe bet. And it was.

So how are Stag’s Leap and Hawk Crest related? Hawk Crest is the more entry-level label from Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars in Napa Valley. Stag’s Leap is known for rather elevated wines at correspondingly elevated prices. If you want a $50 Cabernet Sauvignon, consider Stag’s Leap. Understanding, however, that not everyone considers a $50 bottle of wine a reasonable expense, Stag’s Leap developed this secondary line of wines intended to be approachable, affordable, and drinkable when you buy them.

Stag’s Leap isn’t the only winery doing this. There are lots of wineries out there who have what is called a “second label.” Mondavi has one called Woodbridge. Geyser Peak’s is called Canyon Road. Well-known in the Pacific Northwest, Chateau St. Michelle has a second label called Columbia Crest. Liberty School – which now is a stand-alone wine – first started out as a secondary wine to Caymus. Even the extraordinarily fancy-pants winery Opus One is in the seconds game with Overture. For some, having a second label is a way to expand their market. For others, it’s a way to profitably sell wine that is OK but not up to the standards of their higher-end brand.

So back to the 2005 Hawk Crest Chardonnay. Your Two Wine Nuts are not big fans of Chardonnay done in the traditional California style. Meaning, we don’t like a ton of butter and vanilla and the taste of basically licking the inside of an oak barrel. But, Chardonnay can be crafted in a less woody way, allowing the fruit and crispness to show through. The 2005 Hawk Crest achieved this nicely.

We first noted that the color was not nearly as yellow as many Chardonnays. Instead, the Hawk Crest was lighter and more straw-colored. It had a nicely light smell, not huge and in-your-face (or, perhaps, in-your-nose). We caught whiffs of sweet vanilla (like ice cream), honeysuckle, and honey butter. Taste-wise, we were pleased to discover a nice crispness and sharpness to the Chardonnay. It still had a smoothness and creaminess to it, but it didn’t roll around in our mouths with a heaviness typical of many Chardonnays.

Overall, we would say the 2005 Hawk Crest Chardonnay is a good go-to Chardonnay if you don’t like the heavy, buttery oakiness found in many other versions. Although we found our bottle at BevMo, we’ve seen Hawk Crest in places like World Market and wine shops. And at just $9.99 per bottle, it’s hard to beat. Compared to the Oyster Bay Chardonnay we reviewed on February 3, we would say we like the Hawk Crest a bit better due its more pronounced fruitiness and better price.