A Tasty Rhône Varietal

One of our best finds recently was Tom, the Wine Steward at a local grocery store. He’s a retired wine guy who has great love and passion for the collection he’s assembled in the corner of a nearby QFC. You just never know where you are going to find great wines and great knowledge.

On Tom’s recommendation, we bought a bottle of a 2005 Syncline Mourvedre. We had had Mourvedres before but knew nothing about Syncline. It turns out Syncline is a winery in eastern Washington state, an area increasingly known for growing great warm-weather grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, and Chardonnay.

Mourvedre is a type of red grape grown most popularly in the Rhône region of France. Because it originates from this area, it is called a “Rhône style” wine or a “Rhône varietal." Other Rhône varietals include Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan among the reds, and Viognier, Marsanne, and Roussanne among the whites. Unlike in the United States where wine is named by its grape, wines in France are referred to by the area in which the grapes are grown. So, you might drink a Burgundy, a Bordeaux, a Châteauneuf-du-Pape, or a Côte-Rôtie…all places in France that make wine. It would be like saying “I think a Napa would go well with this steak.” Or “What Willamette Valleys do you have?” Honestly, reading a French wine label can be rather confusing since it’s often hard to figure out what the grape is versus the region versus the maker. We’re still learning how to do this. When we get better at it, we’ll add a post.

In the meantime, the state-side Syncline Mourvedre was quite lovely and almost too easy to drink. It was deep, dark purple in color and had a subtle yet earthy nose. Rhône style wines, if one were to make a huge generalization, are typically much more earthy and mineraly and less fruity and flowery. The Syncline followed suit, although its taste was much less pronounced than other Mourvedres we have had. The first time we tried a Mourvedre, we were stunned that it smelled like a two-mile-away skunk – and this was a GOOD thing! That first Mourvedre also tasted sort of barnyard-y and soil-y – again, surprisingly good things. To compare to better known wines, the Syncline Mourvedre was stronger than a Merlot. And it had the weight and body of a Cabernet Sauvignon without the typical dark fruitiness of a Cab. We had lasagna with the Syncline and it went quite nicely.

We have no idea how easy it would be to find the 2005 Syncline Mourvedre outside the local QFC or the winery itself. According to their website, Syncline distributes to “select wine stores” in a number of states. At $19.99, the 2005 Mourvedre was perhaps a touch over-priced. We would have been more excited at about $15. Nevertheless, we are likely to include Syncline on a future wine trip to Eastern Washington. And, if you have never tried a Mourvedre and find one in a local wine store or World Market, we would encourage you to give it a try. You just might be surprised how nice a barnyard can taste!

For more info about Rhône varietals, check out Rhône Rangers.

A favorite sweet Riesling

One of the really fun things about Rieslings is that they can vary so much. Some will be sweet and fruity; others will be dry and acidic. In the mood for a sweeter version, the other night we opened a 2005 Firestone Vineyard Riesling and were happy that this easily sippable white has remained consistently sweet and light since we first discovered it in 2003.

Like most sweet Rieslings, the Firestone version smelled like apricots and peaches. Its flavor was similar. The label also claims it boasts a honeysuckle flavor. Having never eaten honeysuckle, we can’t say for sure but we’ll at least agree with the concept. Because of its sweetness, the Firestone Riesling is another good wine for folks who are just starting to experiment with wine. We have a couple of very occasional wine drinker relatives who love this wine whenever we serve it to them.

Firestone Vineyards is owned by the same family famous for tires. It is located in the Santa Ynez Valley near Santa Barbara, CA. Several years ago, we visited the winery. We tasted about ten different offerings and the Central Coast Riesling – one of their more entry-level, grocery store wines – was the only one we liked.

We haven’t yet spotted Firestone wines in the Pacific Northwest. We do occasionally see it on wine lists. It is easily found at Beverages & More and online. Road trips to California usually involve a stop at BevMo and this is one of the wines we stock up. The 2005 Firestone Riesling is currently on sale for $7.99, regularly priced at $9.99. Either way, we think it’s a great buy.

An exciting break-through!

It's a very exciting day! Our homegrown Riesling grapevines are showing signs of happy roots. For the first time, several have grown past their protective green grow tubes! Of the 54 stalks we planted back in February 2006, we've got 50 still happy, living, and viable.

Our soil is very rocky; we're on an old volcanic bed. We have been assuming that once the vines are able to plow down through the rock and establish roots, we will have some pretty strong plants. So far our educated guessing is proving mostly true.

Next step: figure out how to protect these new taller vines from being munched by deer.

Another wine down the drain

A bad bottle of wine can still be a good experience. There’s a lot to learn from a wine that’s either gone bad or just doesn’t suit your taste buds. We had just such an experience a few nights ago.

Some friends opened a bottle of an Italian wine that had been imported by a favorite California winery. This is to say, we didn’t know the wine but we trusted its source. It was a red varietal we hadn’t heard of. Nevertheless, it had a smell and a taste that your Two Wine Nuts were familiar with.

The wine’s most distinctive scent was of Band-Aids. Yep, that plasticy, chemically, antiseptic smell. One Wine Nut also picked up some Magic Marker in the aroma. And there was Band-Aid in the taste, too. After a few sips and commiseration, the group deemed the wine undrinkable and we moved onto another bottle.

So what does that Band-Aid taste and smell mean? Band-Aids is a tell-tale sign of a very specific yeast hanging out in a wine. It indicates the presence of a yeast called brettanomyces [breht-tan-uh-MI-sees] – or “brett” for short. Brettanomyces is a yeast that grows naturally on grapes and in wineries. For the most part, wine makers try to avoid allowing brett into their wine. However, there is some debate among winos as to whether or not a brett-flavored wine is a good thing or a bad thing. A little brettanomyces in a wine can add some complexity and earthiness, especially in a red wine. However, too much brett and you start wondering who has the boo-boo and just opened the Band-Aids box.

For lots of microbiological info, click here. For a high-brow debate of the usefulness of brettanomyces, click here.

A good Cabernet for cooking

We needed a basic Cabernet Sauvignon for our favorite tri-tip marinade recipe so we went to our local Albertsons to see what we could find. We picked up a 2004 Chalone Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon on sale for $12.99 (regularly priced at $18.99). We had had good experiences with this pioneer Monterey County (California) winery in the past so we figured we had a safe bet. And the verdict? Eh. As a drinking wine, it’s great for a marinade.

This Cab was a deep rich purpley red, as we expected. Its smell, however, was not very pronounced. Aside from a wine smell, the only scent either Wine Nut could pick up was “dusty.” Having just taken the wine glasses out of the dishwasher, we know the glasses weren’t the dusty culprits.

Taste-wise, this California Cabernet started off nice and fruity but quickly disappeared. Because the flavor did not linger after the wine was swallowed, we would describe this wine as having a “short finish.” By contrast, a wine with a long finish – a very good thing – is one where even after the wine has slid down your throat, you can still taste various flavors and can continue enjoying the wine well before your next sip.

One Wine Nut also declared this pick to be over-oaked. He determined this by the astringent, dry feeling in the mouth and the wooden taste. Cabernets are very typically aged in oak barrels for some length of time in order to impart some of that oak – and often vanilla – flavor into the wine. A wine can get too oaky either by spending too much time in an oak barrel or by hanging out in a newer barrel. Some people like a lot of oak flavor in their wines (California Chardonnays are famous for this); your two Wine Nuts, not so much.

Overall, this Cabernet Sauvignon served its ingredient purpose well but it wouldn’t be our choice for a drinking wine. However, on a recent trip we picked up a bottle of a Chalone Vineyard Merlot at a grocery store. We shared it with some family while chatting in a hotel room and it was quite tasty, even when served in Styrofoam coffee cups. So if you want to try this old-standby Monterey County wine, go for the Merlot and skip the Cabernet…unless you’re marinating tri-tip. And $10-13 for either makes it worthwhile.

Favorite corkscrews

Much like people have a “junk drawer” in their kitchen, we have a “corkscrew drawer.” There are many varieties of corkscrews. Over the years, your Two Wine Nuts have narrowed the field to three favorites, depending on the Nut and the cork. Here are the three we keep on hand:

This is one Nut’s favorite. It is the Pocket Model made by Screwpull. When not in use, it collapses to a handy size perfect for drawer, pocket, backpack, or picnic basket. To use it, you slide the handle part out, put it on top of the screw, place the pronged cover on top of the bottle, and spin the handle around as it pushes the screw into the cork. Screwpull calls it a "self-pulling corkscrew’"and that’s exactly what it is. There’s no muscle required, and the screw goes in straight every time. This corkscrew is also very small and light, making it preferred over the popular "rabbit style" corkscrews which always work but are bulky and often weigh more than the bottle of wine being opened. The downside to this pull is that it is a bit more expensive and does not work well on synthetic corks. The other Nut also dislikes its lack of tradition. You can find the Screwpull Pocket Model in various upper-end kitchen stores like William-Sonoma, or online. Amazon is selling it for $14.95. See Screwpull and Amazon for more info.

This traditional corkscrew is preferred by the other Nut. This is called the Waiter Style corkscrew. It seems all waiters use this style, not sure why. It can be found just about anywhere, including grocery stores, dollar stores, and wineries. Like the Screwpull, this collapsible corkscrew is light and small, very portable and handy. The Nut prefers this screw because it is traditional and effective. It is also the best type for removing stubborn synthetic corks. The other Nut sometimes gets frustrated by this corkscrew because the screw can be inserted incorrectly and end up going in diagonally, often breaking the cork or at least crumbling a small part of it. Practice and using your index finger to guide the screw can help prevent this. This type of corkscrew typically sells for $5-$8.

This final corkscrew is called the Ahh-So corkscrew. The name either comes from it being “ahh-so” easy to use, or more likely, the eventual comment “ahh, so THAT’s how it works!” Like the others, this corkscrew is light, small, and very portable. It seems a little harder to find these days, although kitchen stores, wine stores, and various online sites will have it. It is priced similarly to the Waiter Style. The advantage that this corkscrew has over the others is that it does not have a screw that pierces the cork. Instead, starting with the longer prong, you place the prongs on either side of the cork and wiggle the prongs down between the cork and the bottle. Then you pull and twist the captured cork and it pops right out. This is a good corkscrew to use if you have an old, fragile cork to remove. The downsides to this corkscrew are that it is miserable at removing synthetic corks, and sometimes, when pushed too hard, the prongs can force the cork down into the bottle. When that happens, there are other tools to try to retrieve the cork but we prefer just to leave the cork where it is and pour around it.

A Good Introduction to Whites

As mentioned in a previous post, we recently picked up two bottles of wine while shopping at Target. While we weren’t that jazzed about Folie à Deux’s red version of Ménage à Trois, the California White Table Wine version turned out to be OK.

The first thing we noticed about the white 2005 Folie à Deux Ménage à Trois was its color. It was a very pretty, clear light yellow. It looked a lot like pear juice. The smell was very pleasant, too. It smelled sweet, like apricots and orange blossoms. Before looking at the label, we thought the wine smelled like a Viognier or a Sauvignon Blanc. Actually, the three grapes that comprise this ménage à trois are Chardonnay, Moscato, and Chenin Blanc. The Moscato and Chenin Blanc grapes explain the sweet smell.

Moscato is a grape typically used in light, sweet dessert wines. Moscatos are often just a hint fizzy and frighteningly easy to drink. We’ll review one of our favorite Moscatos as it gets closer to summer. Chenin Blanc wines are also a bit on the sweeter side, although they are not dessert wines. The first wine one of your Wine Nuts started drinking way back when was a Callaway Chenin Blanc. It was just sweet enough to be drinkable for a Wine Nut in the Making. And this white Ménage à Trois shares that characteristic.

Overall, we would describe the taste of this wine as a bit watery, bland, and lacking pizazz. It’s not offensive; there’s just not a lot to it. On the plus side, it is not harsh or acidic or alcohol-y. For this reason, we think this wine would be great for someone who is new to wine. It’s just sweet and easy enough to be enjoyable if most wines make you pucker your lips and say, “Yick.”

We think this wine is a little steep at $10. For $5-$7, we would keep it on hand for guests who aren’t Wine Nuts but want to join in the fun. Like its red brother, this Ménage à Trois can be found at Target and World Market. And it’s a better buy than the red.